"Toxic skincare"

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Spoiler: science agrees that ingredients aren't "clean" or "dirty"
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Welcome back to SkinSort Sundays!

You might have seen content talking about "dirty" or "toxic" cosmetic ingredients. Ingredients aren't "clean" or "dirty (and the science agrees).

Here's everything you need to know about it. 
If you're not interested, you can unsubscribe at any time. No biggie!
Hazard vs Risk
Clean beauty tends to mush two words together: "hazard" and "risk". 

These two words have a clear distinction in toxicology (and it's ok if you don't have a background in toxicology, we'll explain everything). 

A hazard is something that could hurt you. On the other hand, risk is how likely it actually does in your specific situation.

The formula is: Risk = hazard x exposure.

This just means low exposure = low risk, even if the hazard sounds scary. 

Here's a way to think about, thanks to Dr. Michelle Wong and Dr. Fred Lebreux:

A lion is genuinely dangerous. But a lion at a zoo poses no real risk to you because you're not in contact with it. 

The risk and exposure change if you are wandering around in the lion's natural habitat with no barrier. 

In this case, the lion didn't become more dangerous; your situation did. 

"Clean Beauty" just skips this step entirely and bans ingredients based on hazard alone. 

When you judge on hazard alone, everything is potentially dangerous. 

It's kind of like refusing to drink water because people can drown in it. 
A case study on parabens
Parabens are worth unpacking because they're the most famous example of this.

Almost all the fear traces back to a single 2004 study that found parabens in breast tumor tissue. 

This sounds alarming but there's a lot missing from that story:
  1. The study had no healthy control group to make meaningful comparisons.
  2. It didn't show that parabens caused anything. 
  3. The authors themselves stated it couldn't imply causation.
Finding something present isn't the same as finding it guilty. 

"But aren't parabens estrogenic?"

Technically, yes, but weakly. In lab conditions, parabens can mimic estrogen between 1,000 and 1,000,000 times weaker than the estrogen your own body already produces. 

You actually get a stronger estrogenic effect from eating tofu.

After 20+ years of regulatory review, that weak lab activity has never translated into a confirmed real-world harm at cosmetic use levels. 
The twist in "clean beauty"
Ingredients are usually in cosmetics for a reason and removing them doesn't make it automatically safer.

The best example of this is preservatives:

You introduce bacteria, yeast, and mold every time you open a jar. 

These microbes can multiply to genuinely dangerous levels while a product still looks and smells completely normal. 

Using contaminated product on your skin or near your eyes can cause real infections. 

So when a brand swaps out parabens for "cleaner" preservatives, they're not removing the need for preservation. 

They're actually just using alternatives with far less safety data behind them. 

Parabens have a century of safety data and most alternatives do not. 

These alternatives also tend to need higher concentrations to do to the same job. 

Since preservatives are already the more allergenic ingredients in cosmetics, it means more people are reacting to products. 

Dermatologists have been seeing more contact allergies, and product recalls for contamination have been climbing.

You can see the "natural is safer" logic falls apart fast. 

Natural doesn't automatically mean gentle for your skin or for the environment.

Safety in skincare isn't about "clean" or "dirty" labels. It depends on the dose, how a product is used, and how much you're actually exposed to.

Regulators already factor all of that in with a safety margin of at least 100x below where any effect shows up. 

"Clean beauty" is an unregulated marketing term with no agreed-upon definition. 

It's a great business model. It just isn't science.

Next time someone talks about a "toxic" skincare ingredient, ask this one question: at what dose?
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Thanks for hanging out with us today! Hope you have a great day ahead. 

We’d love to hear what you thought about this week’s SkinSort Sundays - just hit reply to share any feedback or ideas. 

Genne at SkinSort 
PS. Don't forget to wear broad-spectrum sunscreen! ☀️
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